What’s not to like?ĭrop me a comment below the line (when you get back from your FLGS) to let me know what you think. It massively speeds up the process of washing your models when you’re painting in bulk, leaves a very nice finish, and gives your models a robust varnishing to boot. Stopping only to go like my page on facebook, and then sharing this post with your friends, this article should imprint upon you the need to head straight down to your FLGS or online at The Outpost (my FLGS) and order yourself a pot of this!! What you’re looking at is base colours, Quickshade strong tone dip, and matt varnish. When you’re done you should have something that looks like this 🙂 Please note that this model only received a basic base coating, no highlighting and no shading have been done. That being the case, don’t leave it in a place where your cat can rub up against it! The quickshade comes off very nicely this way.Īlso please note that the Quickshade is very sticky, and until it dries it will only get stickier. There shouldn’t be any pooling, but if there is, now is the time to carefully remove it by dabbing with a tissue. Carefully remove your model and set it aside to dry for a day.
A steady hand may be required here so you’re careful not to hit the sides or you might damage your model… Oh and be wary of your model flying off the cork for the same reason (hopefully you secured it well).Īfter 20 – 30 seconds of this, you can stop the spinning. Pull the trigger on your drill, your model should start spinning in the jar, and centrifugal force will carry the excess shade from your model and collect on the sides. Then carefully raise your model out of the quickshade and lower it into your empty jar. Try to not go so deep that you overflow the base, but make sure the whole model is submerged. Then, holding your drill, dip the model carefully into the (pre-shaken) Quickshade. Why they didn’t chose a more obvious set of names I do not know, but hey, never mind. It also comes in darktone, which is black to you and me. Quickshade comes in three shades, light tone, which is for shading light colours, strong tone, which is like a dark brown similar to Citadel Agrax Earthshade (basically, use this on 99% of all things). This is good because it allows you to literally dip your models into it (more on this later). It comes in a traditional house paint tin containing 250 ml, the tin is a good 2 or 3 inches tall and wide. Which is especially great if you’re using it on metal models, or plaster of Paris castings! I’ve also found that the quickshade acts as a pretty robust varnish too. As the name implies, it allows you to quickly apply shade to the recesses of your model. Quickshade dip is best imagined as alternative to a traditional wash. I should also let you know that at time of writing I have only used Quickshade strongtone. Today I’ll be talking about my experiences with quickshade, telling you how I’ve found it to work, some things to avoid, some things to definitely do, and some expectation management.
Using quickshade strong tone how to#
Publishers use these marks when books are returned to them.Welcome to another post in my How to series! Remainder Mark - A remainder mark is usually a small black line or dot written with a felt tip pen or Sharpie on the top, bottom, side page edges and sometimes on the UPC symbol on the back of the book.If excessively worn, they will be marked as "tray worn."
Using quickshade strong tone code#
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